Остров Тиоман

Steve McClure - Trials & Tribulations on Tioman Island

The offer of some work in Singapore this summer planted the seed of a return to Malaysia and Tioman; a family holiday, snorkelling again and chilling on the beach, but maybe I'd get a crack at The Dragon, now firmly established as a must-do summit tick for adventurous climbers. But really? What were the chances? No partner, seldom visited by climbers and slim chance of hooking up. I pondered my options. Travelling light is the way to go, but we were already heavy, with all our junk barely fitting into too many bags. A full rack of climbing stuff was hardly fair. Maybe take nothing and hope to meet others with everything, or take half and meet another half-rack person. I opted for my 80m skinny Petzl rope, just 8 draws, 2 slings, 3 screwgates, GriGri and abseil device. It still seemed like a lot when chances were I'd not even use any of it, but still have to lug it around all over Asia.

I'd been there before, way back in 2005, and though I couldn't fail to notice these huge lumps of clean black and white streaked rock, they didn't really register in my climber's mind. There were no routes then, and the cliff base was deep in the dense, impenetrable jungle. And it rained too, leaving a permanent mist and the summit rarely visible. I was there to snorkel and chill, and stuck to that plan! But of course other climbers were more captivated, and of course the weather is generally good, and now there are a good scattering of routes. The Dragon's Horns have become famous for some of the best multi-pitch climbing in Asia, with excellent quality solid granite in a stupendous position way above the jungle and views far out over the crystal clear sea to paradise islands in the distance.

Источник: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_-_trials+tribulations_on_tioman_island-11268

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